Historic Treasure of the Week - January 6, 1991
By Barbara Carney
Vigo County Historical Society
Historic Treasure of the Week - January 6, 1991
By Barbara Carney
Vigo County Historical Society
"The wearing of mourning is a time honored institution which, though varying from time to time in matter of details, remains a principle always the same. The grief-stricken mourner instinctively turns to the conventional garb of sorrow taking refuge behind its sombre veil, at least until the sharp edge of grief has been somewhat dulled. To be sure there is no inherent quality of consolation in the black garments themselves--they are merely a silent but appropriate expression of grief; for would not gay colors at such a time have the same effect upon the distressed mind as the garish sunlight would have on weary and overstrained eyes?"
The quote from the October 1891 issue of "The Delineator" magazine, describes the attitudes and dress for periods of mourning during Victorian times and long before in the Western world.
Victorian mourners followed a strict code in dress and behavior. It is hard now to understand how strong the conformist pressures were on women in the period from 1850 to 1900.
Many Victorian women allowed "society" to dominate their existence to the point that they submitted to the wearing of dull, black clothes, sometimes for years. Queen Victoria set the example and social classes followed in varying degrees. In fact, through all of history, royalty seems to have dictated the proper dress for survivors of the deceased.
For widows, the mourning period lasted at least two years. In the first stage, black crepe was the standard fabric, and the rule was that nothing must shine or gleam. After a year and a day, a widow could move on to the second stage. Black was still worn, but styles were less severe with more embroidery. Silk replaced crepe, and the use of mourning jewelry was allowed.
After two years, a short period of half mourning took place during which gray, lavender, purple and mauve could be worn. Many elderly women whose husbands died never put aside the black attire.
Black or white trimmed in black was the usual dress for children who were in mourning for a parent or a grandparent.
Along with crepe dresses and black-edged handkerchiefs, specially designed mourning jewelry was required. Some mourning jewelry was worn as a souvenir of the deceased.
The Victorians fastened locks of hair inside lockets and rings. Queen Victoria made the wearing of jet jewelry very popular.
Rings were traditionally the most popular form of mourning jewelry. there was a time when rings were given to all the chief mourners at a funeral. A man of great social status could acquire many rings. Ministers and doctors usually received rings at every funeral they attended. In the Victorian period, possibly because of the increase in the cost of making funeral rings, memorial rings were no longer given away.
Another pre-Victorian custom was that of giving black gloves to the mourners at funerals to be worn "in memorian" In 1736, at the funeral of the governor of Boston, more than a thousand pairs of gloves were distributed.
Through the years, mourning attire has been, especially for women, the perfect showpieces for displaying their family’s respectability and wealth. As fashion magazines rose in popularity, mourning wear became even more stylish.
The cape pictured as the historical treasure of the week is typical of those worn during the late 1800s. It is short, partially covered with black lace with a wide band of jet beading above the lace. Black satin is gathered at the neckline.
The cape was given to the Vigo County Historical Society by Martha Boyer of Hazelton. It was worn by her mother, Ruth. It is part of a collection of mourning attire at the museum.
The Historical Museum of the Wabash Valley, 1411 S. Sixth St., is open from 1 to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.