March 29, 1987
By Susan J. Dehler
Vigo County Historical Society
Howe vs. Singer
1800s saw sewing-machine war
The “sewing-machine war” of the 1850s may sound like a competition between seamstresses, but among manufacturers it represented a battle for control over one of the most revolutionary inventions of the 19th century.
The two major rivals in this power struggle were Elias Howe Jr. and Isaac Merrit Singer. They fought not only for the monetary rewards the sewing machine could bring, but also for the honor of being its “principal inventor.”
Howe was born in 1819 in Massachusetts. He worked as a journeyman machinist in Boston where he became interested in perfecting a knitting machine. Not a wealthy man, Howe turned to inventing a sewing machine to help support a wife and three children.
He used an eye-pointed needle, which other inventors had attempted. But he also used a second thread on a shuttle, modeling his device after weaving principles and the loom. By 1845, Howe could actually sew a seam. On Sept. 10, 1846, he received his first patent for a sewing machine.
Although Howe attempted to market his new invention by demonstrating its wonders at the Quincey Hall Clothing Manufactory in Boston, people still were reluctant to invest in it. The machine was costly (around $300) and still had imperfections. Discouraged, Howe sailed abroad to try the English market.
Meanwhile, Singer--a former actor, theater manager and inventor--decided to put his efforts into improving the sewing machine model he had seen in 1850.
In “The Americans” Daniel Boorstin notes: “According to Singer’s own account, after 11 days and nights of intense work during which he slept and ate only irregularly, he produced his improved model.” Singer’s machine could do continuous stitching--which Howe’s could not. But much of Singer’s success was due to his talent in salesmanship and advertising.
When Howe returned to the United states, he sewing machine had gained in popularity. Some models being sold used many of the features Howe had patented. To protect his patent rights, Howe warned manufacturers about their infringements and sold them licenses for a royalty fee. All but one complied. Singer refused to pay.
Howe took Singer to court where a three-year trial finally ended in favor of Howe. The court declared that although others had previously been on the right tract toward the invention of the sewing machine, no one had ever patented it nor made a “practical, salable machine.”
Singer’s model had improved features, but it also infringed on the patented features created by Howe. Singer was forced to pay the inventor $15,000. Howe made his fortune not by manufacturing the sewing machine, but by receiving royalty payments for its invention.
The sewing machine on display in the museum is a Howe model dated around 1880. Features include the eye-pointed needle, the second threat or bobbin, and the foot pedal which set the machine in motion. The machine folds up inside its wooden cabinet.
The Historical Museum of the Wabash Valley, 1411 S. Sixth St., is open from 1 to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.