Historic Treasure of the Week - April 14, 1991
By Tim and Cindy Weir
Vigo County Historical Society
Historic Treasure of the Week - April 14, 1991
By Tim and Cindy Weir
Vigo County Historical Society
True paisleys were shawls woven on hand looms
In the country store, in the basement of the museum, resides a paisley shawl. Although paisley shawls of this type are not rare, they are becoming harder to find in good condition. They frequently fall victim to moths because they are woven of cashmere wool and silk.
They were woven in various sizes from about 4-foot square to rectangular ones 6-feet by 10-feet. The smaller sizes were folded in half and worn around the shoulders. The larger ones were folded in half and worn around the shoulders. The larger ones were folded and wrapped around the body twice or three times so not to drag on the ground.
Many times they were later used as piano scarves, table cloths, or as couch throws (though this was not their original purpose or for their good). Most shawls found have black centers, and occasionally with no center at all, but solid paisley.
Paisley cloth was imported from Kashmir, India, in the 1770s and 1780s, but when import duty reached 81 percent, English weavers decided to try their hand at making them. Paisley shawls were first made in England and Scotland about 1784. They were made in the Hindu and Persian styles. The best designs were silk warp and worsted weft, with designs darned by hand. It was not until 1805 that it was produced entirely by loom in England.
True paisleys are woven shawls made on hand looms, though embroidered and printed shawls were also made in the town of Paisley in Scotland. Paisley shawls woven on the Jacquard loom were priced L5 to L25. It took from three days to a week to weave one. By comparison printed shawls were turned out 20 to 30 per weekend sold for 7s6d to 5L.
Embroidered paisley shawls have a nubby knotted backside while printed ones are smooth and plain on the back. Queen Victoria was known to have worn a paisley shawl to a royal christening in 1842. But, most shawls like the one found in the museum are from the 1850s or later, and are examples of the embroidered type.
The Historical Museum of the Wabash Valley, 1411 S. Sixth St., is open from 1 to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.