Vigo County Historical Society

Illustrations of 1800s not slick, but effective

Fashion unfolded from artists’ eyes

Women of the early 1800s were just as fashion conscious as we are today. They, too, would search the fashion magazines for the latest style in order to have an up-to-date wardrobe. Those magazines did not have the slick photographs we are accustomed to seeing. Drawings, prints, lithographs or plates were used to illustrate the magazines at that time.

The Historical Treasure for this week is two fashion prints taken from a publication in England by Rudolph Ackermann.

Rudolph Ackermann was a German-English publisher and inventor. He was born in Schneebert, Saxony, in 1764 and died in Finchley, Middlesex in 1834. He opened a print shop and art school in 1795 on the Strand, London, England, where he built a profitable business as the publisher of "Ackermann’s Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, etc."

This was a monthly periodical which lasted until 1828 when 40 volumes had been completed. Works of illustrator Thomas Rowlandson and many other leading artists appeared in this magazine. In 1825 he published "Forget-me-not," which became the originator of the English annuals. Other works by Ackermann were three volumes of "Westminister Abbey" in 1812; "The Rhine" in 1820; and 43 volumes of "The World in Miniature" from 1821 to 1826.

As an inventor, he developed and manufactured waterproof cloth and paper. He also was one of the first to apply the lithographic process to illustration, and was a pioneer in the use of illuminating gas.

Documentation on the backs of these prints date to the evening dress prints to have been published by Ackermann in a fashion book, Feb. 1, 1823. The walking dress print was published in Ackermann’s fashion book, April 1, 1818.

The evening dress is made of a dark pink medium-weight material. It has white embroidery trimming the short, puff sleeves and at the lower half of the skirt. There is a white lace at the neckline and elaborate embroidered flowers at the hem.

The model is also wearing a dark blue cage. It is lined with light blue material and uses the same blue color for a ribbon tie. She has long sleeves, carries a fan and has gold slippers and white stockings on her feet.

Her hair is done in a fashionable chignon placed half-way up the back of her head and a mass of curls are on her forehead. She wears only flowers for a headdress.

On the walking dress, you see a shorter hemline than the evening dress. The gloves worn with this dress are shorter, also.

This dress is another high-waist dress and is made of heavy gold material. A light-weight insert above the "V" neckline has a high collar that is gathered to attain the choker effect. There is lace at the lower neckline and at the sleeves. Above the hem is a deep elaborate floral embroidery.

The bonnet has a wide brim with a tall crown to accommodate her hairstyle comfortably. It is trimmed with ribbon, feathers and flowers and is tied under her chin with a wide ribbon.

To complete her outfit, the model is wearing a fringed dark red shawl, white stockings, and ruby slippers. She is carrying a small handbag.

Both prints were donated by Mrs. Carl (Sally) Bopp, and can be found in the seamstress’ shop on the second floor of the museum.