December 27, 1987
By Deborah Curtis Drummy
Vigo County Historical Society
Handkerchiefs recall more genteel times
It’s hard to imagine that the lovely, delicate handkerchiefs features as this week’s historical treasure evolved from small woven grass mats used by primitive people to wipe their brows. But then the handkerchief is one of those items whose function is not really affected by its degree or simplicity or elaborateness, so its appearance can swing as freely as fashion allows.
The jump from grass mats to showy accessories of dress wasn’t long in coming. During the Classical Age, handkerchiefs, which were worn exclusively by churchmen and the wealthy, were made of cotton, silk and linen. By the 16th century, use of handkerchiefs had fairly well “trickled down” to the general population, and they became even more beautifully decorated. Common features were drawn threadwork, bobbin and needle lace, and ribbon trim.
In France, lace became so popular that even gentlemen carried lace-trimmed handkerchiefs. In Elizabethan England, silk and cambric were the popular materials of ladies’ handkerchiefs which often were given as favors to admirers who tucked the love token into their had brims.
An interesting story explains the handkerchief’s transition from its original oblong shape to its present square. Legend holds that Marie Antoinette one day commented to Louis XVI that she was bored with the oblong shapes of her hankies, whereupon he immediately decreed square as the only shape acceptable in his kingdom.
Handkerchiefs were essential elements of dress in the American colonies, too. Even the Quakers considered a plain handkerchief essential to good grooming.
In the 19th century, Napoleon’s Josephine set the trend in handkerchiefs as she brought her dainty lace one to her lips frequently to hide her unattractive teeth. Ladies all over the world began carrying small lacy handkerchiefs in their hands.
By the 20th century, following the trend of most fashion, men’s handkerchiefs became very simple and standardized. Women’s handkerchiefs remained ornamental, although they began to be tucked away in purses more often than not; if shown at all, a folder corner may have peeked from a pocket.
Linen was and remains the favored fabric. It’s soft, absorbent and easily laundered. But even with all of these virtues, as we near the end of this century, it appears that ladies’ handkerchiefs may be heading the way of diapers, razors and the vast array of disposable you-name-its gracing the grocery shelves one week. The county landfill the next.
The disposable facial tissue has certainly replaced a log of handkerchiefs in the pockets of ladies’ handbags. Call me old-fashioned, but I don’t regard this development as an improvement. The beauty of the handkerchief is lost, as well as its vastly superior absorbency. Facial tissues disintegrate upon first use, and they are not always easy to dispose of. This leads to the inevitable tissue-stuffed-in-pocket-goes-through-automatic washer syndrome. It’s not a pretty thing.
The handkerchiefs preserved at the museum are indeed pretty things, which no doubt contributed to their preservation over the years as they were treasured by their owners. Visitors are invited to view the handkerchiefs and a variety of other beautiful fabrics, laces and needlework on display in the museum’s seamstress shop.
The Historical Museum of the Wabash Valley, 1411 S. Sixth St., is open from 1 to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.